Danau Toba, Prettiest Volcanic Lake

Toba gets touted as Sumatra’s prettiest volcanic lake, a claim that detracts from its real appeal: the Batak people. Sure there is a backdrop of mountains and a cool, clear lake, but Toba’s relaxed atmosphere remains intact even when the day is hazy or the shorefront overgrown with weeds. And the Batak culture has modernised with grace despite tinkering from missionaries and tourists.

A lot has changed in Toba since its heyday, when Bataks and backpackers found that their common interests of having a good time made a nice little cottage industry. The spring break–style partiers now howl at the moon in Thailand instead of Toba.
On weekends money from Medan and Aceh comes to call and a few travellers still pop in with great expectations. But the numbers aren’t enough to hide the obvious: tourism in Toba is almost dead.

This is all the more reason to come, not out of some sort of travelling philanthropy, but because the beaten trail is now off the beaten track. Nice hotel rooms go for a song, the outgoing Batak are genuinely glad to see you and the crowds that make travelling feel like child’s play are being babysat somewhere else.

‘Horas’ is the traditional Batak greeting and it’s delivered with great gusto, as are a few glasses of jungle juice (most Toba Batak are Christians) to warm up the pipes for the music-loving Batak.